Body canvas, chest canvas and domette basted together and pad-stitched to create structure for the chest. The dart has been cut out ready to close by sewing silesia either side and creating a zig-zag stitch to secure it.
Inside jacket pocket bag cross-stitched to canvas to secure it. You can see that the dart has been closed and the silesia is attached over the slit.
The front jacket pieces after having internal structure basted in and facings attached with lining and stitches in place
The back jacket with inlay and holland linen on the neck line and armholes to support the collar and sleeves.
The back jacket with inlay for the hem, it has been basted to the lining which has a pleat in to give movement to the wearer. The lining sides will be attached to the front lining sides when the back and fronts are attached by machine.
The sleeve construction and interfacing where the buttons and buttonholes will be to prevent fraying and damaging the fabric.
The hem is folded on the tailor-tacks and you can see the inlay on the sleeve seam, this is for adjustment and alteration purposes. The raw edge has been cross-stitched ready for the lining to be attached.
Inside top left pocket bag and facing neatly finished with holland linen providing extra support to the pocket.
The shoulder seams attached by hand and the side seams sewn using the machine. The jacket has a good balance and is ready for the collar to be basted on.
The collar canvas and melton after being pad-stitched and pressed to give a nice shape is then basted on to the jacket and the gorge is determined. The rest of the collar will be trimmed away.
After attaching the top collar and draw-stitched the collar to lapels and inside neck of the jacket.
The jacket on a stand with the basting stitches still intact.
Double jetted trouser pocket, pattern matching.
Double jetted pocket on inside of jacket.
Buttons and buttonholes on sleeve jacket.
Men’s waistcoat. Front waistcoats after having the linen basted and break-lines marked.
The inside lapel of the waistcoat, pad-stitched to give a nice roll to the lapel and linen tape basted to help the lapel sit right.
Inside of the waistcoat, the dart has been cut out of the linen to provide shape and linen tape attached to the closed dart and zig-zag stitched to secure closed. Linen tape has been added on the break-line, armholes, hem and inside front with ease to keep it close fitting to the body.
The inside waistcoat with front-facing attached and cross-stitched ready for the lining to be attached. Top pocket also constructed and finished inside neatly.
Determining how much lining is needed for the inside front.
Making on the facing where the lining will be folded over and basted with ease before it is sewn properly.
A pleat put in the lining so the wearer has some room to move without it pulling.
The waistcoat nearly complete and ready to be turned the right way through a 4 inch gap in the side which will later be hand-sewn closed.
Double breasted jacket with large lapels, collar already attached and ready for the gorge to be marked and cut.